By jj, 12 November, 2025

Buenas noches,

I was really astonished when I heard it.
Even now when I think about it, it still seems impossible.

Today I made a very beautiful journey along one of the most beautiful Vias Verdes. More about that later.

Until today, I had only come across one long-distance cyclist. So that chance is already small.

By jj, 12 November, 2025
html

Today marks the first start in Spain!
And also the first Vías Verdes, although they are mini Vías Verdes with a few tunnels.
I captured the very first one well on video. As a tunnel, it’s not impressive, but there can only be one first.

I took it easy today.
A few more kilometers and then a serious via verde begins, not only in terms of distance but also one from the top of Spain, they say, so I’m curious!

By jj, 12 November, 2025

Then you're suddenly overwhelmed by a cloud of perfume that intoxicates the whole street. If I were to rely solely on my sense of smell, I would bump into many Stockholm women because my nose has now determined that Stockholm women by far use the most perfume.

Had a nice ride with regional trains, though you have to switch between operators.
The regional trains here are already much better than Dutch intercity trains, more luxurious, wifi, and a lot faster.
Regional trains accept bicycles.

By jj, 12 November, 2025

Today was an incredibly tough stage. Absolutely one of the hardest so far. All gravel and always straight up the mountain. I've never experienced the first gear being not enough and slipping while climbing. Today, climbed almost 900 meters on very steep gravel. In addition, headwind the whole way.

By jj, 12 November, 2025
html

It doesn't get much better than this.

Clear blue sky, almost 20 degrees, wind at your back.
It's been more than a month since the weather was this good.

Yes, and then you ride along the coast that you almost never see.
How nice would it be to sleep by the beach, or even better; on the beach?
That's exactly what I'm going to do now. With the sound of the sea, it's sure to be a good night.

By jj, 12 November, 2025

Cycled 125km today. To the city of Umeå.
Challenging, certainly not exhausted.
90% was gravel and lots of small climbs, which makes it less hard to be on the bike for 6.5 hours. There's gravel and then there's gravel. This was among the better gravel paths and the surroundings are beautiful too.
It did get late.

Saw the Baltic Sea for the first time.
It looked calm.

By jj, 12 November, 2025
HTML

Started today with the Sun route (Eurovelo 7) heading south, and there was plenty of sun.

This morning I visited the village Bonnstan. It is located in the city of Skellefteå and consists of houses that are 200 years old.
Very small houses where people still live, which were originally built for farmers who needed a place to stay overnight when they came to the city for church. See the last photos.

Not knowing that I would sleep in an even older house today, from 1642.
If you exclude the shower and hotplate, it looks quite authentic.

By jj, 12 November, 2025

How good do you want it to be?

Today I biked 80km and didn't see a soul. Just unpaved forest paths.
At the beginning two cars. That was it.

I get a lot of energy from such gravel paths.

Bizarrely beautiful nature. Very wild. Saw many reindeer. Looked around carefully to see if I spotted a bear anywhere.

I also chased reindeer. They live up to their name. A cyclist is clearly no match for a reindeer.

Camping freely near the Trollforsen. I can hear them well. 

By jj, 12 November, 2025

Winter is indeed right at the doorstep here. If you look at it as a Dutch person.
I was stuck here because of the weather and was also able to sleep in the church for a bit.

At night, it approaches freezing point combined with stormy wind and rain.

Then you arrive with your summer sleeping bag with an 8-degree comfort temperature. I was awake all night. I wasn't the only one, camping was also discouraged. The next day I was able to sleep for a few hours. And lots of warm showers also help.

By jj, 12 November, 2025
html

Can you imagine this?

230km is the first village.
370km the second.
550km the third.

So, those are villages. Not cities, there are none here.

Fortunately, the supermarket came earlier. Everything was gone, so I only had a pack of cookies from the gas station.

Last night, I slept exactly on the Arctic Circle.

I am cycling all the time on route 95. Very boring, a quiet wide road but with fast-moving traffic. You only see forest and cycle 40km along the same lake.